Mexcaltitlán

In harmony with nature, without cars or signs of progress, yet full of joyful people, Mexcaltitlán is an island where time seems to have stopped.
The large numbers of herons, seagulls, and eagles as well as the respect they get from islanders (most are engaged in shrimp fishing) sets this place apart. The rich animal life in the lagoon is partly due to the combination of saltwater from the sea and freshwater from the river, and because there are no highways or large constructions nearby. It is incredible that this area has not been declared a national park or a protected natural area. However, in 1986, the island was declared a Historical Monument Zone because of its unique alleyways, typical buildings, and old traditions.

During the rainy season the small island (barely 400 long and 350 meters wide) “sinks”, as local folks say, because the San Pedro River tends to flood. Streets become canals and people use canoes to get around; sidewalks are built high to keep water from reaching the houses. There is a beautiful church near the main plaza (in the middle of the island), which is the entrance to a small museum called “El Origen”, which has a room with local archeological objects and another one with pieces of different Mesoamerican cultures, especially from the Mexica people.
Life goes by amongst the lagoon, five alleys, and the plaza. People leave their homes’ doors open and old folks sit around chatting on porches spending peaceful afternoons, while kids play and laugh near them. Everybody seems happy and at ease perhaps because of the good fishing, the tropical climate, the blue sky, the river, the sea, or the lagoon. Or, maybe it is because the tasty white fish they eat or because they still use pre-Hispanic recipes like the taxtihilli, shrimp in a stew with corn dough and spices.
The island has several nice typical handicrafts made with materials from the sea, including the “barcinas”, which are canvas bags used to store dry shrimp.
The town’s main celebration takes place on June 29 when people honor St. Peter and St. Paul and pray for an abundant shrimp catch. Two teams of fishermen, each representing one of the saints, race in canoes, and even bring with them the saints’ statues which are decorated by locals. St. Peter always wins because people say that the last time St. Paul won, the catch was awful.
At one point, many Chinese immigrants settled on the island and brought much wealth to the region, as they traded goods such as porcelain, ivory, cloths, and fishing products. Several descendants of the original families who came from Carbon, China still live in town.

Some people believe this island is the mythical Aztlán, the place the Mexicas or Aztecs left when they migrated to central Mexico and eventually founded Tenochtitlán. The idea stems from the alleged common root of the names of Mexcaltitlán island and the Mexica people. Some authors claim that both words come from the word “Metztli”, which was the moon goddess of the Náhuatl-speaking people. Thus, Mexcaltitlán means “in the moon’s house” due to the island’s round shape which is similar to the moon. Other scholars say that Mexcaltitlán means “home of the Mexicas or Mexicanos” and point out to the fact that, just like Mexcaltitlán, Mexico City or Tenochtitlán was founded on an island in the middle of a lake. Other sources say the word Aztlán means “place of herons”, which supports the theory that the Mexicas came from Mexcaltitlán, where these birds abound. According to other specialists, the “place of the seven caves” used to be here; there are, in fact, many caves in the state of Nayarit, but that is relatively far from Mexcaltitlán.

All of the reasons above have stirred the idea that this place is “the cradle of Mexicaness”, yet many historians and archeologists still think these theories lack the necessary scientific evidence to affirm that this place was the original home of the founders of Tenochtitlán. Nevertheless, research continues and there are several vestiges suggesting that the island was settled by relatively advanced people.

Perhaps Mexcaltitlán is not the cradle of the Mexicas. After all, it is hard to imagine anyone living in this beautiful place that would want to leave.

Source: México desconocido # 272 / October 1999